Beau Voerman
designer/dichter
Beau Voerman
designer/dichter
Bedachtzaam schaaf ik aan mijn woorden
Maak ik ze draagbaar
Ze vallen
Verschijnen
Een fascinatie voor materialiteit en oog voor verfijndheid.
Binnen een fragiel bouwwerk
steeds draagbare ruimtes creëeren.
Bedachtzaam schaaf ik aan mijn woorden
Maak ik ze draagbaar
Ze vallen
Verschijnen
Een fascinatie voor materialiteit en oog voor verfijndheid.
Binnen een fragiel bouwwerk
steeds draagbare ruimtes creëeren.
Olfactory Glossary
A
acidic
A sour or urinous smell. This can be for example attributed to bergamot, sorrel, spinach, rhubarb, sweat and fungus.
acrid
A strong, bitter and unpleasant smell.
‘There’s only tannin, acridity and astringence on my tongue. Pinch your nose and drink a glass of wine: you’ll understand.’ (Dancourt, 2024)
airy
Light, floral smells like linden blossom, magnolia, and neroli. (Aftel, 2002)
‘Her Breath is airy Amber. A Breath that perfumes the Air with Elysian Sweets.’ (Shirley, 1688)
aldehydic
Metallic, soapy and citrusy scent. It can be raspy and slightly fatty. It may contain facets of coriander, candle wax, orange and reminds you of clean laundry. (David, 2020)
ambery
A warm, powdery and sweet scent like vanilla.
animalic
A warm , musky vibrancy belonging to animals but also plants like hay and tobacco. (Aftel, 2002) It can also be used to describe bodily smells. (Turin et al. 2009)
aromatic
A complex bouquet of cool, clean, green, herbal, woodsy smells that can be attributed to various herbs, spicy, floral and citrusy smells.
‘A world forgotten, distant, nearly dead and spent, Within thy depths, O aromatic forest! lies. And like to spirits floating unto melodies,
Mine own, Belovèd! glides within thy sacred scent.’ (Baudelaire, 1909)
aqueous
A watery smell that is close to fresh leaves, melon, watermelon and cucumber.
B
balmy
A warm, ambery and floral smell.
balsamic
Sweet, vanillic, syrupy and heavy smell, which is most common used for describing woods with floral and spicy undertones. It can, for example, be attributed to cannabis and nutmegs.
‘Nutmegs are oval, flattened at both ends, of a grey-brown colour, and reticularly furrowed on the outside, of a yellow colour within, variegated with brown undulating lines, solid, hard, unctuous to the feel, and easily cut with a knife, and have a balsamic smell, and agreeable aromatic taste.’ (Duncan, 1826)
bitter
Like the peel of a citrus or tea that has been steeped for too long.
‘As for bitterness, I reject it violently, like animals. Artichoke, endive, celery, brussels sprouts, beers, grapefruit and arugula are impossible to appreciate.’ (Dancourt, 2024)
blossomy
A subtle, transparent and floral smell.
bright
The fresh opening of a perfume like a citruses and star anise.
Thierry Wasser (Guerlain’s in-house perfumer) on the smell of star anise: ‘The (…) scent is brighter, clean and fluid, less powdery and herbaceous than aniseed, with its bitter fennel-like accents.’ (Revillard, 2022)
burnt
A smell that evokes the idea of burnt facets that ranges from sweet smells like caramel to sulphurous smells like gunpowder.
C
candy
Candied smells like caramel, toffee, cinnamon and dried fruit.
chalky
A dusty, mineral, delicate smell that reminds one of clay, gypsum and white dust.
‘Crabs-Eyes are of a Gritty Taste, and a strong Chalky Smell; if dissolved in Vinegar, they taste Bitterish Salt: and therefore are Diuretick, having a latent Volatile Salt.’ (Floyer, 1687)
cosy
A smell that creates a cocoon like vanilla, soft woods and almond.
cottony
A clean, soft, slightly sweet smell.
‘Root creeping. Herb more or less woolly or cottony, glutinous, with a peculiar acid aromatic scent, somewhat like the flavour of peaches.’ (Cutts, 1911)
creamy
A deeply textured smell that gives a soft impression like peaches, coconuts and soft woods.
crispy
A green, fresh, acidic and metallic smell like rhubarb, petitgrain and autumn breeze.
‘In the bright citrusy opening, we can make out a zesty orange and a crisp petitgrain, whose vegetal nuances are underlined by crushed basil leaves.’ (Hojlo, 2022)
D
dark
Notes of coffee and caramel.
decay
Particularly natural decaying matter like leaves in autumn.
deep
A complex, lingering, powerful, sometimes even tenacious smell that has a lot of body like amber, woods and mineral.
dewy
A fresh, cool, watery smell that refers to natural surroundings and in some instances even mouth-watering type of smell like the flesh of a coconut.
’Ere twice the shades o’dawn are fled,
In a’ its crimson glory spread,
And drooping rich the dewy head,
It scents the early morning.’ (Burns, 1840)
diffusive
A lingering, heavy and powerful smell that evaporates extremely slowly. For example, the aroma of coffee that lingers in the café.
dry
A smell that lacks sweetness and ranges from vegetal notes like hay, ferny and dry grass or dried flowers to mineralic smells like sand and dust.
dusty
A delicate, musty or even mouldy smell that is particularly reminiscent of old books, carpets and mothballs.
‘‘I am too hot and scorched with my own thought: often is it ready to take away my breath. Then have I to go into the open air, and away from all dusty rooms.’ (Nietzsche, 1896)
E
earthy
Deep, dark, natural, lingering, musty and stale smells like patchouli, hash and freshly turned soil.
edible
Sweet, gustatory and warm smells like caramel, coconut, vanilla, black tea, green tea, cognac, coffee and cocoa.
F
fatty
A descriptor that could remind you of fried food or cheese fondue and the texture of wax products.
fecal
A dirty smell that reminds you of animal manure.
fine
Like a soft texture, a billowing cloud, a smell that is toned down.
‘Like the violet, lily of the valley has always been appreciated for its fine, subtle and fresh scent, evocative of spring.’ (David, 2019)
fishy
The typical smell that surrounds the sea, algae and seafood.
floral
A broad descriptor that can be applied to all flower-related smells.
‘(...) can be sweetly gamine with a naive delicacy, outrageously sensual with a hip-swaggering headiness, or a myriad of nuances in between.’ (Nightingale, 2019)
fleshy
A smell that is particularly attributed to white flowers like neroli, tuberose and jasmine and fleshy, juicy fruits like pear.
fruity
A versatile descriptor for smells that reminds one of fruit, ranging from zesty citruses to creamy coconut and tart strawberries.
G
grainy
A term that can be applied to smells that are textured, with grainy facets like patchouli and sandy or mineralic notes.
green
A fresh and natural smell that reminds one of the stems of a plant, matcha tea, cooked spinach but also more chemical types of smells one can connect to the word ‘green.’
‘At Luzi, the senior perfumer Marc Daniel Heimgartner unfolds, as an example, a few olfactory meanings of green: ‘‘Green leaves, green apples, unripe fruit, sap, moss green, green tea, pine needles, vegetable green, aromatic herbs, violet leaf, resinous green, grass, algae, green mandarin, lime, cucumber, dry hay, synthetic metallic green. Each green has its own smell!’ (Bouasse, 2024)
grilled
The smoky, savoury and sweat smell of grilled meat but is also applies to that of hazelnuts.
H
harsh
A clean and sterile smell that is pervasive like bleach and chloric swimming pools.
heady
A sweet bouquet, reminiscent of more complex smells like perfume and petrol.
‘Perfume - the heady and elusive marriage of the essences of herbs and spices, wild grasses and flower, bark and animal and tree - is an engine of the universe.’ (Aftel, 2002)
herbaceous
Herbal, camphoraceous or mentholated notes like cypress, rosemary, eucalyptus, lavender, peppermint, pine, thyme or tea tree.
honeyed
A sweet smell, that can have tobacco undertones that reminds one of leather, beeswax balms and honeydew.
‘With its honeyed, slightly chocolaty, fruity and floral scent, reminiscent of cassie flower and broom, it is a finishing touch for floral bouquets and tobacco notes.’ (Beaulieu et al. 2020)
humid
Like the wet fur of your beloved dog, the moss in the forest, the sap of a fig tree, mushrooms and cellars or the dampness of a towel that has not yet been dried.
I
icy
A smell that evokes the notion of cold and freshness, which can be specifically attributed to the smell of mint.
indolic
An inky, bitter, fecal odor (Turin, et al. 2009) It is strong and animalic smell, reminiscent of bad breath and white flowers.
‘The absolute of Jasminum grandiflorum from Egypt is less fruity and spiced than its Indian counterpart, but also more indolic (imparting a more animalic impression).’ (Beaulieu et al. 2020)
J
juicy
A sweet, fruity and sunny smell particularly described for the smell of clementines, mandarins, oranges and grapefruits.
K
No descriptors yet, suggest a new descriptor for the glossary
L
leafy
A fresh, green and vegetal smell that is reminiscent of crushed leaves.
leathery
An earthy, animalic, bitter and smoky smell that can sometimes have green and humid facets.
lush
A voluminous, rich and velvety smell like leather.
‘The lush accord is a blend of bamboo, patchouli, vetiver. wet woods, white peony, white clover and sapling.’ (UBM, 2000)
M
malodorous
A very unpleasant, acidic and indolic smell. It can also have yeasty, pungent and vinegary facets.
medicinal
A smell characterized by bitterness. Different from the descriptor bitterness, it is specifically attributed to non-food like pharmaceutical products and myrrh.
metallic
Slightly metal (iron) facets which one could think of as clean and cool and can be attributed to various smells including clove and loose change.
milky
A light textured smell that can be found in soft woods.
‘By the second or third day the majority of the colonies are the size of lentils or pfennig pieces and frequently confluent. The gelatin has a slight milky odor.’ (Ford, 1927)
mineralic
A dry, iodic smell that evokes the notion of minerality like stone and sand.
mouldy
A moist/humid and musty smell, like soil, roots, fungi, humus and bales of hay drying in the sun.
musky
A powdery, woody, clean and sometimes slightly animalic and fruity smell.
musty
A mouldy, cloudy and frowy smell.
N
narcotic
A bitter smell that evokes the notion of addictive substances like tobacco, alcohol, hard and soft drugs.
‘Odour slightly narcotic, taste subacrid, bitter, nauseous ; does not lose its activity by drying.’ (Thomson, 1885)
nutty
Smells like hazelnuts, pralines and walnuts, which create a crispy effect.
O
oakmoss
Dry, bitter-smelling extract from various species of moss. (Turin, et al. 2009)
oleaginous
Gourmand smells that have an oily texture like sunflower seeds and waxy smells like candles.
ozonic
On aquatic smell reminiscent of watermelon, melon, cucumber and fresh leaves.
‘Once snow has spread its white coat, we perceive lively, clean, ozonic smells that can evoke aldehydes.’ (Beaulieu, et al. 2023)
P
peppery
A woody smell that gives a sensation that makes your nose wrinkle.
petally
A floral, velvety smell reminiscent of a flowers petal.
planty
A fresh, green smell that is reminiscent of the stem of a plant.
plasticky
A smell that ranges from an overpowering, heady resinous scent that reminds one of hot plastic, hair-removal wax and furniture polish to a sweet, sharp and pungent smell with fruity undertones that one smells when drifting on an inflatable boat.
powdery
A gentle, powdered, textured smell with soft fruity, musky or floral undertones.
Q
No descriptors yet, suggest a new descriptor for the glossary
R
raspy
Evoking a raw or rough sensation like the smell of bergamot and ginger.
‘As for vegetables and aromatic herbs, they are the realm of green smells, raspy for the stem of grape tomatoes, slightly anisic for basil, which contains estragole, and very refreshing for mint, whose carvone and menthol content depends on varieties.’ (Hojlo, 2022)
regressive
Particularly nostalgic smells from one’s childhood toys that are scented with synthetic edible and fruity notes ranging from vanilla to apple, strawberry, banana, peach, raspberry and tutti frutti.
resinous
A warm, delicious and balsamic smell, particularly that of the fir tree or spruce.
‘The wood of the red cedar is odorous, and the leaves, when bruised, emit a resinous, aromatic odor.’ (Young, 1620)
roasted
Like coffee, peanuts, cocoa beans, meat and malt.
rotten
A pungent, invasive and decaying smell like that of decaying flesh or food, which attracts flies and beetles.
rubbery
An acrid, dense and pungent smell that reminds one of basketballs.
S
sandy
A dry, grainy, iodic smell that evokes the notion of minerality, sand dunes and the seashore.
salty
Although salt and iodine are odourless, this clean smell can remind one of seafood like oysters and the seashore.
smoky
A tenacious smell that creates depth and can be attributed to leather and bacon.
soft
Tender smells that are powdery with fruity or floral undertones.
solar
A warm, floral and balmy smell that one thinks of when going on a holiday to a warmer destination. For example, the smell of scented oils.
sour
An acidic, sour-tasting smell like rhubarb.
(On Blackcurrant): ‘some find its powerful, sour and sulphurous aspect gives an impression of sweat or urine, especially cat’s urine.’ (Revillard, 2017)
spicy
The biting, stinging effect of spices you will find in your kitchen: pepper, cardamom, cumin and clove. It can also be attributed to specific flowers like jasmine.
spiky
A smell that has a spiking, piercing or searing sensation like rose, woods, cumin and cinnamon.
suave
A comforting and subtle smell like fresh strawberries on the market and a cat’s fur.
sugary
A sweet, syrupy smell that reminds one of caramel, candy floss and dates.
sulphurous
It can be sour, urinous and acidic but it can also have facets of rotten eggs.
‘In Ancient Greek, sulfur was called theion, designating purifying smokes, a word close to theios, meaning ‘‘divine.’’ Volcanic fumes, rich in noxious hydrogen sulfide and corrosive sulfur oxides, led to associating the element with the figure of the devil rising from infernal depths and breathing his sulfurous breath.’ (David, 2024)
T
tangy
A strong and sharp flavour or smell like freshly cut grass and green apples.
tasty
Although it could refer to gourmand smells in general, tasty is specifically used for fruity-floral notes.
tarry
A strong, sweet and leathery smell.
‘Animalic, smoky, fatty, dark, powdery, tarry, phenolic… The smell of leather is not the least of its attractions.’ (Hojlo, 2023)
tart
A bitter and sour smell, particularly reminiscent of strawberries and rhubarb.
‘The chemical constituents of the Strawberry are a peculiar volatile aroma, sugar, mucilage, pectin, citric and malic acids in equal parts, woody fibre, and water. The fruit is mucilaginous , somewhat tart and saccharine.’ (Royal College of Physicians in Edinburgh, 1895)
toasted
The delicious smell of warm, yeasty bread freshly baked from the oven.
U
unctuous
A creamy and rich smell like vanilla, tonka bean and honey.
V
vegetal
A versatile descriptor for smells that reminds one of green vegetables with earthy facets.
velvety
A soft texture one can connect to the surface which the smell stems from like suede, peaches, apricots and the petals of a jasmine flower.
vivid
Vivid or vivacious smells are the typical top notes that are characterized by their fresh, volatile, sharp and bright facets.
‘It has fresh, vivacious notes of sap and anise, a herbal facet of parsley and mint, and lastly, a woody and above all musky aspect (…).’ (Giorgi, 2024)
W
warm
A smell that builds around you like a coat and creates the sensation of warmth and depth.
waxy
The textured, warm, flinty smell of cedar wood, shaving a pencil and colouring with crayons and of course, candles.
whiffy
A musty and unpleasant smell.
(About conifers) ‘Their wood is also used to build chalets, which contributes to their special smell blending resinous accents, musty whiffs and the emanations of the rubber doormat we smell when we enter and apartment that hasn’t been used for months for a ski holiday.’ (Beaulieu et al, 2024)
winey
A red, fruity and syrupy smell that is reminiscent of (red) wine.
Then the fruit becomes more candied and wraps the petals of a dark, winey rose. (Hojlo, 2022)
woody
A slightly sweet, dry, warm and sour smell which can have milky, spicy or burnt facets, depending on the type of wood.
X
No descriptors yet, suggest a new descriptor for the glossary
Y
yeasty
A mild and sweet smell which can be found in bread but can also be attributed to specifically Scandinavian coffee.
Z
zesty
A sharp, spicy/citrusy smell which can be found in: lemon, bergamot, bitter orange, grapefruit, mandarin, lime, clementine and ginger.